It is not uncommon to hear about a new bizarre, science-y sounding anti-ageing treatment every other day. There is one treatment you may have heard a lot about lately: exosome facials, which are believed to become the next big thing after PRP/vampire facials.
Exosome treatment for the face is said to “rejuvenate,” “regenerate,” and “repair” the skin, helping with different issues related to texture, scarring and signs of ageing (wrinkles and fine lines).
However, there’s significant controversy about their safety, with many practitioners feeling wary about using exosomes and some choosing not to use them at all. So, are these facials just fancy-sounding gimmicks? Let’s find out!
What Are Exosomes?
An exosome is a very small particle (30–150 nanometres – much smaller than a cell) naturally produced in our body by all the cells.
The main use of these tiny packages is for communication between cells – they carry a cargo of molecules, including proteins, DNA, RNA, carbohydrates, and lipids – which are delivered to the recipient cells, influencing their behaviour and function.
Exosomes have found a number of potential uses, including in cancer diagnosis, vaccine development, wound healing, and, of course, skincare. And here, it should be noted that exosomes can be both good and bad.
According to an article published in American Pharmaceutical Review, exosomes are unique to the cells that produce them. Meaning, for example, exosomes that are produced by cancer-causing cells will result in the spread of cancer, although those produced by stem cells can possibly encourage anti-inflammatory and regenerative effects, like the cells from which they’re sourced.
But the authors of the same study also note that, at present, it is a challenge to isolate and purify exosomes “using consistent and reproducible methods.” This may have certain implications regarding the safety of exosome products as there might be a risk of exposure to the dangerous exosomes. But that’s not the only issue with them (we’ll get to them in just a bit).
What Is Exosomes Treatment For Face?
Exosomes facials are typically not a standalone treatment as they’re combined with microneedling/dermapen or a laser resurfacing procedure to allow the product to penetrate deep into the skin after its topical application.
According to a study published in Biomaterials Research, exosomes can do the following for the skin:
- Produce collagen
- Stimulate the formation of new blood vessels
- Regulate inflammation
Moreover, per a paper published recently in Cell Communication and Signaling, exosomes have the potential to delay the ageing of the skin and can be promising for photoageing (premature ageing of the skin due to the sun) as well.
Although notably, the same study also reported that, to date, there is no clinical trial (a type of research that determines the effect of a treatment on humans) on exosomes for photoageing.
There is also some anecdotal evidence on the positive effects of exosome treatment, suggesting it can help minimise the appearance of pores and make the skin look more smooth, even, better textured and glowy. Moreover, it is purported to help promote healing after a treatment like microneedling.
Still, keep in mind that while exosome treatment for the face might seem like a good idea, the research in this field still needs to go a long way.
Are Exosomes Safe?
In 2019, the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) in the US issued a public safety notice on exosome products. It came after “serious adverse events” were reported in patients treated with unapproved exosome products.
The FDA explicitly stated that there are no exosome products that have been approved by the agency. Also, claims that the FDA does not regulate exosome products are not true – it is regulated, however, at present, no product is approved. Patients are being misled through unverified claims being made about them.
In 2023, a revelatory study was also published in Stem Cell Research and Therapy, which found that there was “no-regulatory approved” exosome therapy around the world.
In addition to regulation, another cause for concern about exosome therapy is how it is sourced. Put simply, exosomes can be harvested from both animals and plants.
The animal-derived exosomes can be obtained from a number of different sources, including umbilical cord, placenta, bone marrow, and fat tissue of other people (serum vials are prepared, sold and used). Now, in this case, there’s no way to tell whether the person from whom the exosomes were taken was healthy or not.
For this reason, some practitioner do not feel these products might be safe enough for their patients. Also, reportedly, because of the risks associated with human-derived exosomes, they’re illegal in the UK.
That is why plant-derived exosomes might be used by certain clinics. Although, keep in mind, that only their topical application is allowed, it is not legal to inject them into the face, as reported in The Standard.
How Many Exosome Treatments Are Needed For The Face?
Generally, multiple sessions of this treatment are offered – around 3 or so – but the final treatment plan will only be prepared after your practitioner has assessed and understood your needs. There can be a few weeks between each session.
How Much Does An Exosome Facial Cost?
A single session of exosome treatment for the skin might cost you around £400 to £600 in the UK. Variations may exist depending on the clinic’s location as well as the qualifications and experience of your practitioner. Keep in mind that you may be recommended multiple sessions of this treatment, so the price can add up.
Are Exosomes Really Worth It?
While there is some promising research about the potential benefits of exosomes for the skin, such as in the healing of wounds, dealing with signs of ageing (although nowhere on the same level as a facelift), and pigmentation, the treatment is still far too new with a lot of unknowns.
From issues in its purification and isolation to the lack of information about the health of the individuals from whom it’s derived, you shouldn’t be too quick to jump on this bandwagon. Even if you are considering it, you must have a thorough consultation with a board-certified medical doctor about its risks, potential side effects, and safety profile.
Conclusion
While exosome treatment might be hailed as the new breakthrough in the world of aesthetics, when it comes to your skin, it’s always better to be safe than sorry. There’s a lot of buzz about its benefits, but it’s important to consider the downsides too. And remember, always consult a qualified practitioner before going ahead with this treatment.
Reviewed and approved by Prof Dr Fuat Yuksel
